• The black cotton drill that is used to make this Frank coat is substantial, tough and very hard wearing. The characteristic diagonal lines that run through the fabric give it a light texture on a minimalist design. Cotton drills have been historically used for clothing that took abuse, most prominently older military pieces and workwear.

    This lining is a 100% Viscose Military Twill, an extremely strong and durable lining seen in modern military uniform including the Queen’s Guards. It is made by the 65 year old British lining company, Bernstein & Banleys.

    We offset the black cotton drill with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    The heavy drill of this coat is offset by the flowing lines of its unstructured style. Instead of a shoulder seam holding an inset sleeve, panels extending from the neck seam make up the sleeve creating a smooth shoulder that follows the body, much like a raglan sleeve. One large pleated pocket sits on the wearer's right hand side acting like an over sized storm pocket. Only the sharp collar remains to remind us of tailored structure giving the coat an injection of formality.

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    This Ferdinand jacket is assembled using cloth from one of England’s oldest and historied mills. The off-white merino melton wool comes from A W Hainsworth in Pudsey who, among other incredible stories, made the fabric for the Battle of Waterloo soldiers in 1815 and invented the colour Khaki. Merino wool has long been a mainstay in adventurous sporting pursuits due to its performance properties. It is a breathable, moisture wicking and body temperature regulating cloth that is so often emulated by modern sports fabrics.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the merino melton with classic mother of pearl buttons. These off-white buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    This Ferdinand jacket in the A W Hainsworth off-white merino melton was created as part of a collaboration with the mill. It is an entirely unique piece shown at London Collections:Men and at the Concrete Studios Paris sales room to garner press attention for the collaboration and our brand. A W Hainsworth resonated with us because of the multi-purpose approach to their legacy. They create cloth for both practical and ceremonial cases, the former seen in firefighting, the military and transportation, the latter seen in guard uniform, theatre and even coffins. We felt they reflected the dichotomy we follow of Johan's precise and wild personality.

  • The leather we use for this Francis bomber jacket is a Portuguese cowhide. It is a relatively lightweight but extremely hardy leather which, like all good leathers, will don a personal and unique patina over time in line with its individual use. This piece should last you long enough for every owner to have a uniquely looking garment; one of the best rewards for leather jacket wearers.

    This lining is a 100% Viscose Military Twill, an extremely strong and durable lining seen in modern military uniform including the Queen’s Guards. It is made by the 65 year old British lining company, Bernstein & Banleys.

    To sit neatly within the black cowhide leather we use a black metal zip adding to the minimalism of the piece.

    The most interesting element of the piece is the broken and reformed structure of the pattern pieces creating a chevron paneled effect. Without being too showy the jacket is now individual and intriguing. The stitched lines and and seams where panels meet draw the eye from the centre of the jacket, out towards the shoulder; a technique seen in classic tailoring by the manipulation of peak lapels or the placement of a button.

  • The fabric used on this Caplin jacket is unique to Jenny Schwarz. The 100% stone green cotton comes to us as any other fabric would. Before cutting the true pattern pieces we quilt over-sized versions using an in-house technique. Once quilted, the true pattern is cut and assembled as usual.

    The lining is a 50/50 viscose cupro twill; a high-quality and robust choice from Bernstein & Banleys, a British lining company founded in 1953.

    We offset the quilted cotton with black lip mother of pearl buttons. Taken from the troca shell, these dark buttons occasionally catch the light and harmoniously reflect the cloth they sit on.

    This Caplin jacket is a balancing act. We pick elements of formality from Dinner Jackets like the lack of vents and the shawl collar but construct them in unfamiliar cotton. Where wool would flow and drape with minimal creasing the cotton performs differently displaying its movement. As a counter balance the quilting gives a soft but rigid structure. The black lip mother of pearl buttons reflect the stone green of the cloth balancing a material often used in work wear.

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